29.08.10
Arrive in Istanbul and take a taxi to the hotel.

30.08.10
A full day of sight-seeing and shopping in this city that was once the capital of the civilized world.
Visit the Blue Mosque, St. Sophia, Topkapi Palace and the famed covered bazaar. Return to hotel for overnight.

31.08.10
Transfer by minibus to the campsite near the village of Soğuksu where we acquaint ourselves with our horses and enjoy the first night under the stars.

01.09.10: Soğuksu to Kızderbent
In the morning we ride from Soğuksu to the medieval hill fort of Çobankale. From here we take our horses through the clear, shallow waters of the Yalak River (the Dracon of antiquity), where we startle flocks of egrets and the occasional heron, and meet young shepherds herding their cattle along the riverbank. We stop for lunch at the Baghdad Restaurant, known for its delicious fresh trout, and after lunch ride via Valideköprü, with its 17th-century bridge, to camp outside the formerly silk-producing village of Kızderbent. (5 hours riding)

02.09.10: Kızderbent to Iznik
We set out from Kızderbent and ride to Mahmudiye, passing through magnificent orchards where pomegranate, walnut, quince, apple and plum trees abound. After a tea stop in a local café, and a picnic lunch, we will ride from Mahmudiye via Orhaniye to the ancient, walled city of Iznik, passing by the Roman obelisk at Dikilitaş along the way. We will leave the horses for the night and transfer to a small hotel. Iznik is a very atmospheric town offering stunning views of the lake of Iznik. (5.5 hours riding)

03.09.10: Iznik to Kızılhisar
After exploring Iznik, we will meet up with the horses again and ride for an hour south from Iznik, towards the mountains and up to the village of Dirazali, where we will have tea. Then we will climb to the summit where we catch our last panorama of Iznik Lake. Picnicking along the way, we ride down from the summit, via Mecidiye, through fields of sunflowers to Kızılhisar, a charming hill village. (4 hours riding)

04.09.10: Kızılhisar Karasil Çeltikçi
We descend from Kızılhisar through fields and woods, coming upon the deserted village of Çelebi, with its solitary minaret and marble fountain. From there we climb down to a fertile plain of fields sporting over twenty different kinds of peppers and other crops. We ride into Yenişehir, where we drink tea and have lunch in the old bazaar, finding it at the center of a labyrinth of streets. Leaving Yenişehir, we ride across the plain into the rich cereal-growing area beyond Yolören. We camp in a field near a green dell with a fresh flowing stream, near the village of Karasil Çeltikçi. (5 to 5.5 hours riding)

05.09.10: Karasil Çeltikçi to Şükraniye
We ride across the richly agricultural Yenişehir plain, and then through rolling uplands via Sungurpaşa and Çavuşköy, where we stop for lunch. We pass other settlements nestling in the hills, and continue to reach our campsite in the village of Şükraniye. (6 hours riding)

06.09.10
A day of sight-seeing in Bursa, once the capital of the Ottoman Empire, and for centuries the center of the silk trade. We will visit the mausoleums of the Sultans, stroll through the historic bazaars, see a private ethnographic museum with its interesting collection of saddles, and lunch at the famous Iskender Restaurant. If our timing is right, we may have a chance to drop in at the rahvan/pacing races .Overnight hotel near Bursa

07.09.10: Şükraniye to Cerrah
From Şükraniye we ride along the lower slopes of Mount Uludağ, ancient Mount Olympus, where the country tracks are lined with walnut and fruit trees. We stop in Babasultan to visit the tomb and shrine of a 13th-century saint, and continue through Yeniceköy and Edebey, lunching along the way. Our camp-site will be on a wooded riverbank near the small town of Cerrah. (4 hours riding)

08.09.10: Cerrah to Bahçekaya
We leave Cerrah and ride through orchards and along farm roads, via several villages on the slopes of Mount Uludağ. In Ortaköy we see the restored 15th-century caravansary of Karaca Ahmet. Soon we start to follow a river to reach our picnic lunch stop on its banks. The remainder of the day we ride through oak forest and up into the hills to reach the village of Bahçekaya .overnight in hotel near Inegöl (6.5 hours riding)

09.09.10: Bahçekaya to Domur
Leaving Bahçekaya early, we ride ever upwards through mixed forest in the hills of the Domaniç range, to reach summer pastures at the summit of the mountain. As we go we enjoy dramatic, extensive views in every direction, and descend to a pass where we will have a kebab lunch at a small restaurant. From here we follow a well-preserved, stone-paved Ottoman road—one of the few that still survive—to emerge where the landscape flattens out in smallholdings, before riding across grasslands scattered with juniper and pines, to reach our campsite above the village of Domur. (6.5 hours riding)

10.09.10: Domur to Elmalı
Today we first drop down to the town of Çukurca, with its nearby tomb of the saint Selim Baba and after crossing grassy uplands as far as Muratlı, ride crosscountry and then along forest roads to Seydikuzu. From here we go to Fındıcak, after which the route opens out, offering panoramic views on all sides. We will have a picnic lunch, and make our camp in the picturesque hamlet of Elmalı, with its wooden houses that are characteristic of the traditional architecture of this area. (6.5 hours riding)

11.09.10: Elmalı to Isaköy
Above Elmalı we come to a cliff down which we must lead our horses to the valley below. Having safely negotiated the goat-track that indicates our path, we follow a river at first, then climb up and up on forest roads before descending to open country at Şenlik where we have lunch. We continue across arable land and chalky uplands to camp near the village of Isaköy. (7 hours riding)

12.09.10: Isaköy to Yoncalı
Today we cross the plain to end our journey in the historic city of Kütahya, ancestral home of Evliya Çelebi. From Isaköy we ride along tracks between orchards to Dedik, thence to Köprüören, and on to Yoncalı, famous for its thermal baths, where we will have lunch. To avoid riding into Kütahya along the main road, we will transfer by minibus to the newly-built hippodrome in the suburbs, to which our horses will be vanned. Here we will gain an insight into one of the most popular equestrian sports in Turkey when we meet some of the local rahvancıs/pacing race enthusiasts who stable their horses here. We will overnight in the recently refurbished Ispartılılar Konağı hotel in the city, and may visit, among Kütahya's many monuments, the nearby Balıklı hamam, built by an Ottoman Grand Vezir in the 16th century. It is the Turkish bath where Evliya himself was scrubbed clean after his travels—this would be a fitting conclusion to our own adventure! (3 hours riding)

13.09.10
Depart by minibus to Istanbul.
Overnight in Istanbul.

14.09.10
Depart Istanbul.GREAT ANATOLIAN RIDE II

14.09.10 to 30.09.10

 

14.08.10

Arrive in Istanbul and take a taxi to the hotel.

 

15.08.10

A full day of sight-seeing and shopping in this city that was once the capital of the civilized world. This was where Evliya Çelebi was born and the city from which he set out for most of his forty years of travel.

Visit the Blue Mosque, St. Sophia, Topkapı Palace and the famed covered bazaar. Return to hotel for overnight.

 

16.08.10

Transfer by minibus to explore the historic city of Kütahya, ancestral home of Evliya Çelebi on his father’s side, and the place where many of his kinsmen are buried. We may visit the newly-built hippodrome in the suburbs where we will gain insight into one of the most popular equestrian sports in Turkey when we meet some of the local rahvancıs/pacing race enthusiasts who stable their horses here. We will overnight in the Ispartılilar Konağı, an Ottoman house recently refurbished as a boutique hotel, and may investigate, among Kütahya's many monuments, the nearby Balıklı hamam, built by an Ottoman Grand Vezir in the 16th century. It is the Turkish bath where Evliya himself was scrubbed clean whenever visiting Kütahya—this would be a fitting start to our own adventure!

 

17.09.10: Yoncalı to Isaköy

We will transfer by minibus to Yoncalı, which means ‘clover-full’, and is famous for its thermal baths. This where our horses have been stabled, and where we will get acquainted with them. After lunch at Yoncalı, we will ride along poplar-lined paths and across fields to Köprüören, and on to Dedik. Here we wend our way along earth tracks between orchards to Isaköy, where we will camp and spend our first night under the stars. (3 hours riding)

 

18.09.10: Isaköy to Elmalı

From Isaköy we ride across arable land and chalky uplands to Şenlik. From here we cross open country while beginning to ascend into pine forest. We will have a picnic lunch at a forest clearing. From the forest we will eventually descend to a river valley and ride along it. We will then have a steep climb up a goat-track, and having gained the mountaintop, ride along the cliffs make our camp in the picturesque hamlet of Elmalı, with its wooden houses that are characteristic of the traditional architecture of this area. (7 hours riding)

 

19.09.10: Elmalı to Domur

From Elmalı we go to the neighboring village of Fındıcak, along a route that offers panoramic views on all sides. We continue to Seydiküzü on forest roads, and then to Muratlı, having a picnic en route. From here we cross grassy uplands to the town of Çukurca, with its nearby tomb of the saint and musician Selim Baba. Here in the Domaniç mountains, home of brigands according to Evliya, we encounter spectacular views and climb up through yaylas, upland summer pastures, to reach our campsite high above the village of Domur. (6.5 hours riding)

 

20.09.10: Domur to Bahçekaya

We leave our campsite above Domur to ride across grasslands scattered with juniper and pines, before entering areas of cultivation where the landscape flattens out in smallholdings. From here we follow a well-preserved, stone-paved Ottoman road—one of the few that still survive. As we go we enjoy dramatic, extensive views in every direction, and descend to a pass where we will have a kebab lunch at a small restaurant. We then ascend once more ever upwards through oak and pine forest, still within the hills of the Domaniç range, to reach the village of Bahçekaya. (6.5 hours riding)

 

21.09.10: Bahçekaya to Cerrah

Leaving Bahçekaya, we descend through mixed forest, passing mountain villages. We come eventually to a river and our picnic lunch stop on its banks.. After lunch we ride along and in the river, overhung by willows, and admire the birdlife. We emerge into a country of orchards and farm tracks on the slopes of Mount Uludağ, ancient Mount Olympus. In Ortaköy we see the restored 15th-century caravansary of Karaca Ahmet. We will continue to a wooded riverbank near the small town of Cerrah, where the horses will stay, and overnight in a nearby hotel. (6.5 hours riding)

 

22.09.10: Cerrah to Şükraniye

From Cerrah we ascend the lower slopes of Mount Uludağ, and continue through Edebey and Yeniceköy to more remote villages higher up the mountain. Here we will have lunch. We stop in Babasultan to visit the tomb and shrine of a 13th-century saint, and proceed along tracks lined with walnut and fruit trees. We will leave our horses in comfort in Şükraniye and spend the night in a hotel. (4 hours riding)

 

23.09.10

A day of sight-seeing in Bursa, once the capital of the Ottoman Empire, and for centuries the center of the silk trade. We will visit the mausoleums of the Sultans, stroll through the historic bazaars, see a private ethnographic museum with its interesting collection of saddles, and lunch at the famous Iskender Restaurant. If our timing is right, we may have a chance to drop in at the rahvan/pacing races. Overnight in hotel.

 

24.09.10: Şükraniye to Karasil Çeltikçi

Leaving Şükraniye, we pass other settlements nestling in the hills, and ride through rolling uplands via Çavuşköy and Sungurpaşa, where we stop for lunch. We then descend to the richly fertile Yenişehir plain. We camp in an arable field near a green dell with a fresh flowing stream, near the village of Karasil Çeltikçi. (6 hours riding)

 

25.09.10: Karasil Çeltikçi to Kızılhisar

Leaving our campsite, we ride across the plain through the rich cereal-growing area of Yolören and beyond. We ride into Yenişehir, where we drink tea and have lunch in the old bazaar, finding it at the center of a labyrinth of streets. From there we continue across the fertile plain through fields sporting over twenty different kinds of peppers and other crops. We begin to ascend through fields and woods into the hill country, coming upon the deserted village of Çelebi, with its solitary minaret and marble fountain. From there we continue to climb through shepherding country to Kızılhisar, a charming remote village. (5 to 5.5 hours riding)

 

26.09.10: Kızılhisar to Iznik

Leaving Kızılhisar via Mecidiye, we ride through fields of sunflowers. We then ascend through mixed forest to a mountain summit where we catch our first panorama of Iznik Lake. Picnicking at some point along the way, we ride down from the summit to the village of Dirazali, where we will have tea. We then ride for an hour to the walled town of Iznik, ancient Nicaea, a very atmospheric place offering stunning views of the lake of Iznik. We will leave the horses camped for the night and transfer to a small hotel. (4 hours riding)

 

27.09.10: Iznik to Kızderbent

We ride out of Iznik, passing by the Roman obelisk at Dikilitaş shrouded amongst the orchards where pomegranate, walnut, quince, apple and plum trees abound, to continue to Orhaniye and then Mahmudiye. After a tea stop at a local café, and a picnic lunch, we continue passing through orchards, vineyards, and olive groves before ascending into forest. We will camp outside the formerly silk-producing village of Kızderbent. (5.5 hours riding)

 

28.09.10: Kızderbent to Soğuksu

We set out from Kızderbent to Valideköprü, with its Ottoman bridge. Here we encounter the Yalak River (the Dracon of antiquity), where we startle flocks of egrets and heron, and meet young shepherds herding their cattle along the riverbank. We stop for lunch at the Baghdad Restaurant, known for its delicious fresh trout, and after lunch continue to ride through the clear, shallow waters of the river to the medieval hill fort of Çobankale. We emerge from the river to wend our way to our final campsite amongst fig trees near the village of Soğuksu. (5 hours riding)

 

29.08.10

Transfer by minibus from the campsite to Istanbul, where there will be time for some final sightseeing and shopping. Overnight in hotel.

30.09.10

Depart Istanbul.

 

7 nights hotel, 9 nights camping